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#CAMPER BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING UPGRADE#Everything seems to be secure from what I can tell.Īnyhow, maybe I should upgrade it anyways. ![]() Well I'll be darned, it works all of a sudden! I don't recall doing anything with the wiring since last time I checked so I'm really not sure why it's working now. I understand why he wants to measure-but if his inverter is as large or larger than mine my personal view is that I would not want the shunt involved. A 500 amp surge is within the parameters of my system while using the inverter. I use a 2500 watt inverter and want an even larger one. If I was to get a surge that takes out my 500A shunt then most likely there would more important considerations than my shunt which could be easily bypassed. That would mean that the battery monitor is unaware of the inverter draw. Too much chance of a surge taking out the shunt and leaving me without cabin power. I would not put my inverter through a shunt. Good advice on the negative cable disconnect! Then if you have charging voltage on the chassis battery side and not on the house battery then replace the solenoid. If you have power on the purple wire the solenoid should engage. They protect themselves and do not need an ignition signal wire to work. Someone else will chip in about the smart solenoids. I even tried the 11880 solenoid with silver contacts years ago and they too were junk. They can rate the can solenoid for a billion amps but they'll only carry 60. I much prefer the Essex type bi-directional "smart" solenoid. ![]() Pianotuna's diagnostic procedure is right on the money. Prevents those sparks is one reason.Ģ009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cumminsħ50 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller Once you got the sparks then the isolator or something else could have been zapped.īTW There are several good reasons to disconnect the negative battery cable first and connect it back last. The n check the two small control terminals (if it's a solenoid) on the isolator. Is the chassis battery being charged from the alternator? If so check the wiring against the pictures that you hopefully took before the new batteries. My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start. #CAMPER BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING MANUAL#I would have a heavy duty manual switch on the inverter as well. The one I used to replace it is a lot better made. Of course you can't check it with no starter battery. The "intelligent" design folks put the relay down below the starter battery so the battery has to be removed to service or check the relay. My Ford OEM one lasted less than a year, in spite of it being rated for 100 amps. Relay type isolators do fail and contacts do burn. Mine had a fuse before the relay that I've caused to be replaced by auto reset circuit breakers. If there is no clunk check to see that the small wire has power when the key is on. If you hear the clunk then check for power on both "sides" of the relay. If it is a relay that is energized when the key is on have someone else turn on the key while you listen for a "clunk". I did accidentally touch it with a wire when I was removing the old batteries and it gave off a few sparks. Here's a quick diagram of my basic wiring:ĭo I have everything wired correctly? If so, maybe my isolator has gone bad. #CAMPER BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY WIRING GENERATOR#The generator is providing charge just fine, although it's on the cabin side of the isolator. It's not giving me any juice when the engine is turned on anymore. Everything's working great except for the isolator that is supposed to give me a charge from the alternator. I just installed a new pair of 6V batteries and rewired everything pretty much the same way, except for wiring them in series. Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Battery Isolator Not Working Open Roads Forum ![]()
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